arewethereyet

Our first waffles in Malaysia, choice of peanut butter or chocolate...

(Sept. 24th – 26th)

We had mixed feelings driving into Malaysia. Neither of us had enjoyed visiting Malaysia in previous years due to the pollution and rampant destruction of the environment that was so obvious in many parts of Malaysia. I had also been quite sick here 10 years ago with food poisoning whilst pregnant with Lulu.

Johor Bahru seemed to have expanded in size with a new expressway that made our exit from town fast and easy. The E2 stretches up through the middle of Malaysia – the roads are clean and well maintained with roadside assistance on hand every km of the way. There are rest stops on both sides – some of these were only a few kms apart. The rest stops always had clean toilets (with caretakers) and more often than not food halls, prayer rooms, playground, fresh fruit stalls and waffles. As with Sumatra, we seemed to be a curiosity on the road. We wondered how Malaysia supported such brilliant roads until we hit the first toll booth. All up we must have paid about AUD$40 to drive through the country. This was offset by very cheap diesel.

First sunset in Malaysia

Lulu and Kaia were pretty exhausted but refused to close their eyes. The sun was setting as we drove through to Melaka. 14 years ago, my memory was a dusty town with an interesting fort near the waterfront. It has changed dramatically with megamalls, fun parks on the water and new developments left, right and centre. Even the beautiful beaches on the way into the city are being reclaimed for a big tourist theme park. At the other end of the city the huge new development reclaiming more seafront is the ‘Arab City’ – a big pull for tourists from Arab nations. We stayed at Harbour Inn for one night and the next morning tried to find the right road out of the city.

Moving mountains

On the way to Penang clear felling for palm plantations and the removal of entire large tree covered rock formations were happening at the roadside. We couldn’t imagine what lay beyond the public eye.

We reached Butterworth by late afternoon and drove across the bridge into Penang. We stayed for 2 nights at the Cathay Hotel which featured in the movie Beyond Rangoon (1995). Gorgeous old colonial hotel which was very cheap considering the size of the room. The girls enjoyed the big deep bath and t.v. Downside was that the airconditioner remote had to be kept at the front desk – there was no adjusting function on the unit at 2am.

Cathay Hotel

Cathay interior

Cathay interior

We met Pravin and family who were travelling in Malaysia for 3 months. Lulu and Kaia were pretty excited to find 2 other kids in the hotel. Pravin and his youngest daughter had been held up a few weeks earlier in Kuala Lumpur at machete point outside his grandmothers gate in an inner city suburb. His story reminded us to stay alert in our travels.

Penang chums

Tri-shaws

Kaia

Lulu, Kaia and I took a 2 hr tri-shaw ride around Georgetown taking in a few sights. It was a hot day but the girls lasted the distance. We visited a Chinese Mansion and Chew Jetty – the biggest of the waterfront settlements in Georgetown created in the middle of the 19th Century. I read later that it’s existence is being threatened by development. Probably the most obvious sign was the sludgy, rubbish strangled water that wraps around the island. The rubbish litters the sea for kms – very sad for the environment. Georgetown is full of UNESCO protected sites. It has a lot of character and a fascinating history. Well worth a visit.

Chew Jetty signage

Traditional Chinese honeymoon suite

We left Penang on Sunday and headed north again for the Thai border. Again the crossing was particularly easy on both Malaysian and Thai sides.

Leaving Malaysia

Singapore!

16 – 24 September 2009
Singapore. It has changed since we last spent time in the city. That was almost 10 years ago. The buildings have multiplied and grown taller. Orchard Road seems to have more glitz and glamour. One thing that hasn’t changed is the manicured, disciplined order that makes Singapore unique amongst the disorder of greater Asia.

Festival of Light in Little India, Singapore

The entire ceiling is one big moving - aquatic - projection

As with other places, it is always the people we meet that give us the greatest insight into each town, country, culture.

We met Malay workers traveling between countries to set up the F1 circuits and Abbott from the Phillipines who creates illustrations for the gaming industry. Incredibly talented guy – we are thinking of him as floods have just hit his hometown of Manila. Thank you to Mr Wong for connecting us with another overlanding family www.cape2cape.co.za. We hope to see you in Chiang Mai later in the year.

Kirsten & family host us for the night - thanks guys!

We also met our first expat family in Singapore – Kirsten, Peter, Hesper, Indigo & Daisy – thank you for your hospitality !

Apparently Singapore is the 3rd most expensive city for expats to set up camp. Their costs backed up our research. House rental $6,500 – 26,000 per month. School for 3 children $30,000 per year. Certificate of entitlement to own a car $20,000. A car purchased for $70,000 had $40,000 worth of government taxes. These costs only took a dip late last year when at least 40,000 expats lost their jobs in the recession. During this time the COE dropped to $200. On Wednesday we need to purchase a temporary vehicle permit and 3rd party insurance for the van just to drive from the wharf to the causeway which links to Malaysia. Every car on the road must be officially accounted for.

The school costs relate to International Schools – this is by no means the most expensive. There aren’t enough state schools to handle the number of children in Singapore. As a result, the average class size is 40-45 students and kids often go to school for 1/2 day to enable all children to have access to a classroom. It’s no surprise that Singapore has so many out of school tutorial/education centres. The kids get minimal 1 to 1 contact, if any.

Mmmmmm...

Yes, REAL frog soup!

Singapore must be another food capital of the world. Pig organ soup, frog porridge, fantastic Indian fare, durian & mushroom ice cream, chicken, duck, pork & seafood prepared in every possible way. One of our taxi drivers said the food can get so hot here that it burns your stomach. We stopped at one Indian food stall and asked for our meal without hot spice. “No hot, no worries” came the reply. After one bite I felt as if my tongue was about to catch fire.

Singapore Zoo: World class

Over the last week we have indulged in a city with a non stop pace – the zoo, the amazing Science Centre, movies, pools, museum, Chinese relexology, Ayurvedic massage and shopping shopping shopping. Consumerism at its best.

The van has arrived at the Port in Singapore - yay!

On Wednesday (23rd) we picked up the van from the wharf. The front of the van had been looted. Unfortunately, we must have forgotten to put one of the bags behind the locked door and a computer & ipod disappeared. The girls bits and pieces were also taken including Kaia’s teddy & Lulu’s keyrings she had started collecting. Big lesson for the rest of the trip – check once, twice and check again. Good to see the grills and locks worked for the back section. Kai drove the van straight off the wharf without any customs checks or delays. It was 6pm before Kai was back so we decided to stay one more night at Fernloft Lavender for departure early in the morning.

We didn’t get out of the city until afternoon. Clearing border control took a matter of minutes as did our clearance through through to Malaysia. During my first ever trip to Singapore, I remember walking between border controls with a heavy pack. An experience I was happy not to repeat.

Beautiful old facade combined with yet another global chain store

The girls in front of the mosque, Medan

We almost missed our flight out of Australia due to the girls leaving using their Dutch passports. There was some confusion over the absence of visas and how we could have been living in Australia without them – we heard our names called and the words ‘will be offloaded’ – and within 30 seconds we had the issue resolved and rushed through the closing door.

After a 6 hour sleepover in Singapore, we boarded a Silk Air flight to Medan at 7.30am. Brilliant airline – can’t think of the last time we had a meal during a 1 hr flight. Our arrival in Medan was definitely another unique experience. The staff outnumbered passengers as we filed into the arrival ’shed’. We lined up to pay our US$10 pp for a 7 day tourist visa. Immigration happily chugging away on their cigarettes whilst we learnt our first Indonesian word ‘Terima Kasih’ (thankyou).

Lulu on a Becak

After picking up the bags we asked one of the many airport officials what the best way into the city was. Instead of guiding us to one of the many becak and taxis waiting outside, he rang his friend who soon arrived in another taxi to take us in. We let the Lonely Planet guide us to Hotel Zakia – behind the grand mosque. 130,000 IDR for a good room, toilet with bucket and scoop and many hours of Indonesian soap operas on offer. It was a good start – until the Ramadan prayer sessions began out of 4 loud speakers. As a special treat, we were enlightened by 2 x 1 hour sessions of prayer.

Wedding at the mosque

Wedding at the mosque

We felt inspired to visit the mosque and after being covered, walked in on a Muslim wedding. Kai was given permission to photograph the wedding and was also introduced to the bride and groom. After the girls and I left the space, we found ourselves surrounded by some women guests who wanted to squeeze Kaia and take numerous photos with the girls.

Squeeze and click!

3 amigos

It was beginning of many ’squeeze and click’ sessions – a novelty for the girls on the 1st day – an annoyance by the 7th. It seems as though western children are rarely seen in Northern Sumatra. Whenever we stopped, the crowds gathered to stare or ’squeeze’ or practice their English. We saw very few other tourists in Medan and felt rather oversized as the Indonesians have such wee frames. Lulu is the same size an average 14 year old Indonesian girl and Kaia’s age was too hard to get their head around.

Serviette folding at Tip Top

Again we let the Lonely Planet guide us to ‘Tip Top’ – a cafe that has been in existence since 1929. The oldest cafe in Indonesia. They are still using the woodfire oven that was installed in 1934. The meals ranged in price from $1 – $3.

Pemb. Semesta bus, so slooooooow!

The next day we took a Becak to the bus station to board one of the local buses bound for Bukit Lawang. The tourist office had told us it would cost 25,000 IDR ($2.50) each for the 3.5 hr journey (70 kms). The locals informed us it was 10,000 IDR. After mistaking the Islamic donation envelope for the fare collection we ended up handing over 15,000 IDR to Indonesia’s version of Elvis. Confusing start. The bus ride was a mixture of smoking, squeezing (Kaia – the whole way), bumping in/out and around major potholes and waiting for the driver to disappear and reappear at various points along the route. 10 mins before Bukit Lawang, a local struck up a conversation with us. We were being hooked and reeled in by a jungle guide going by the name of ‘Jusuf’.

He took us to the ‘Eco-Lodge’ and sat with us to ‘encourage’ us to take a 3 hr trek into the Gunung Leuser National Park to look for Orangutans. It was going to cost us $2 each to view them at the feeding platform vs US$100 for the trek. We had a think over dinner and agreed to set off at 1pm the next day. The next morning we visited the weekly market to find Lulu some shoes. A $5 purchase to cover her feet and we set off after lunch into the jungle.

Baby orangutan

Orangutan

Orangutan

Lulu & Kaia feeding an Orangutan

We came across 5 Orangutans which the guides had coaxed down out of the trees to be fed bananas and pineapples. It wasn’t until after the trek that we read we shouldn’t have fed or touched them due to disease and their unpredictable natures. The guides seem to make up their own rules amongst the trees.

Kaia connects with nature

It was incredibly special as there are so few Orangutans left in the world. Due to the continued threat to their environment (illegal logging) and the limited breeding cycle of the females (3-4 children per lifetime – once every six years after the age of 10), their future is somewhat uncertain. It is incredibly sad as they are such intelligent, beautiful creatures.

The rest of our time in Bukit Lawang was spent in a different hotel (Wisma Bukit Lawang Indah), rafting down the river and hanging out with the locals. Lulu made friends with 3 local girls and Kaia made herself at home in the hotel kitchen and with 2 kids onsite. Most Indonesian children learn English at school so there wasn’t a major language barrier. I don’t think it would have mattered if there was. The town is beautiful – however, it is still recovering after flooding caused by natural dams bursting due to illegal logging leaving mountains bare of plant cover. 300 houses were swept away and around 170 people died. A big impact in a small village (1000 people).

Rafting!

Rafting!

Rafting!

Lulu with her new friends in Bukit Lewang

Lulu with her new friends, Colby, Maya, Bowie

Kaia & Kai crossing the rapid

Lulu with some locals, brother and sister

Spot the frog!

Group shot

Bukit Lawang

The restaurant at our hotel, Bukit Lawang

Our $5 room in Bukit Lawang

Orang: Indonesian for Person!

It was hard to leave, but our short visa forced us back into the CHAOS of Medan for one more night before heading out. We found an amusement park on the 4th floor of the shopping centre opposite our hotel which the girls were stoked about. Lulu spent her time on the bumper cars and Lulu on the ‘Mery Go Around’. We were approached by a Chinese guy – John – who developed a product called ‘Agricola’ – a fertiliser that helped produce oversized crops. His formula was developed through God speaking to him. It turns out he is a Christian who uses his fertiliser to try and convert Muslims to Christianity. It is illegal for Christians to share their religion with Muslims in Sumatra. If they are caught, they face 20 years to life in prison because of the threat to Islam. However, it is no problem for a Muslim to approach a Christian – and so he waits for Muslims to approach him about the fertiliser. He will quite happily give it away for free if they convert.

?

Medan departure hall must be one of the shabbiest. Duty Free shops in a predominantly cash only society, customs officials more interested in Facebook and playing patience on their computers than checking passports. Maybe an increase of the AUS$7.50 departure fee would improve facilities. We almost had our first run in with the Indonesian legal system on departure as the ‘arrival officials’ had forgotten to stamp Kai’s passport. The ‘departure official’ couldn’t figure this one out – so pulled out his stamp and backdated an arrival date in Kai’s passport. No worries eh?!

Australian salt water croc

On Saturday, with idle threats of stringing up wayward children for hungry crocs, we headed off to do some crocodile watching. The old man of the river was 70 years old and over 5 meters in length. The girls hung off every bit of info – we learnt that the female crocodile stays in one nesting place for most of her life, and that male crocodiles ‘own’ a small stretch of the river and do not tolerate rogue males in their territory. The crocs have the most beautiful, unique colourings and patterns.

Tuesday we are heading for Singapore, with a connecting flight to Medan, on the Indonesian Island of Sumatra. Looking forward to visiting the Orangutans. We will spend a week in Sumatra, while our van is in transit between Darwin and Singapore. We are looking at Sept. 19th as the start of South East Asia by road.

As we write, Darwin is having it’s first rainfall since May. The girls are naked, jumping through muddy gutters with big smiles on their faces. Huge relief for these sweaty travellers!

Australian caravan parks have been an experience in themselves – a diverse bunch of characters in each town. There’s a sociology / psychology or anthropology thesis in the making. No shortage of stories here…

Australian salt water croc

Australian salt water croc

White Eagle

White Eagle

Kite

The big open road - lots of it

Wednesday 19th – Sunday 23rd August 2009

The van was ready at 5pm on Wednesday 19th and we headed north. It was a great feeling to be back on the road. We only managed 200 kms before tiredness got the better of us and we camped out at a truckstop just before Port Wakefield.

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